DAY 12 -- YELLOWSTONE TRIP 1926

 

AUGUST 7 -- YELLOWSTONE, THEN AND NOW

[I have no postcards from this day, but they apparently left Yellowstone at 5:00 p.m. on this date, as revealed in tomorrow’s postcard.

It looks like the family had so much fun touring Yellowstone National Park and the Jackson Lake area, but I see the downside, and today a visit to the Park is a very different experience. I asked AI to give me a comparison. Read on:]

My aunts -- Bernice and Shirley

It is easy to look at old photos from the 1920s and feel like early tourists had a more magical, unfettered experience. Visitors back then could walk right up to the edge of active geysers, feed black bears directly from their car windows, and explore the wilderness without crowds, boardwalks, or reservation systems. From a perspective of pure, lawless novelty, it certainly looked like a thrilling vacation. However, historians and park rangers point out that this unfiltered freedom came with severe, often hidden consequences that would shock a modern traveler.

The Chaotic Reality of 1920s Tourism

• Severe Safety Hazards: Without boardwalks or guardrails, early visitors frequently suffered severe, sometimes fatal burns from stepping through the fragile thermal crust into boiling acidic water.
• Violent Wildlife Encounters: Encouraging bears to feed on human food and garbage caused massive spikes in injuries. Dozens of tourists were hospitalized every year from bear bites and maulings, and the animals suffered from poor health and shortened lifespans.
• Widespread Destruction: Early tourists routinely threw logs, rocks, and trash into geysers to force eruptions. This permanently choked off the plumbing of several unique thermal features, destroying them for future generations.
• Ruined Landscapes: Soap and laundry detergent were regularly dumped into pristine pools like Morning Glory to change their surface tension and trigger bubbles, which accelerated the growth of damaging bacteria and altered their brilliant colors forever.

Why Today's Experience Offers a Different Kind of Value

While modern rules can feel restrictive, they were enacted to save the park from being loved to death. Today's visitors trade the chaotic, destructive freedom of the 1920s for a different set of benefits:

• Ecological Health: Thanks to strict management, Yellowstone is the only place in the lower 48 states that still retains all of its medium-to-large wild mammal species that existed before European settlement.
• True Wild Behavior: Instead of watching a garbage-fed bear beg for scraps by the roadside, modern tourists get to witness apex predators hunting, foraging, and raising their cubs in a completely wild, natural ecosystem.
• Preservation: The boardwalks ensure that the vibrant thermal pools and delicate microbial mats look exactly the same for you as they will for visitors a century from now.

Early tourists certainly had a wilder, more unscripted adventure, but modern visitors get to experience a healthier, more authentic ecosystem that has a chance of surviving into the future. [End AI]

[As a final word from me, the fact is that you must do your homework before visiting Yellowstone – or any national park, for that matter. You can’t do it your way. You have to know the rules. Tent camping -- actually "roughing it" -- is a thing of the past. You have to have a metal-sided camper and keep your food within secure metal boxes. And you must have a reservation for overnight stay.

A friend once said, "A seer of sights I am not." I agree. And to this I can add, "Been there; done that." The crowds can have it. KW]

DAY 11 -- YELLOWSTONE TRIP 1926

[It’s Friday, August 6, 1926. I am concerned that our family should be starting for home. It took them five days to get to Yellowstone, and it will take every bit of that to get home. So, what’s the hold up? Apparently the men are determined to fish, and yet they catch next to nothing.]

Ina wrote this postcard on August 6:

Dear Girls, We are camped on the Yellowstone almost nine miles above the falls and Grand Canyon. The men have gone fishing – crazy – but we’ll have to begin to hurry home. Each has caught a fine trout except Vance. They went off about 5 this A.M. in Lynn’s car to fish. Yesterday they tried it in the lake and river on Fishing Bridge but no luck, so we went on to Grand Canyon. I use only superlatives here to describe Upper and Lower Falls. Then we drove back about nine miles so they could fish. Lovely camp. Only two other parties here. A bear came into camp about 4:30 this A.M. and got the men up. He was turning over pots and pans. The girls are still sleeping, but I find it hard to do in more ways than one so got up and built a fire.

 

[Ina says that Earle took this photo of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone from Inspiration Point. Dad and I didn't go. The road was closed for repairs and it was a two-mile walk, so only the "boys and girls" went.]

Point Lookout and the Lower Falls. Dad, Shirley, Bernice, and I are the people you see in the "log pen" on the point. Earle, Vance and Lynn came on down the rim and shot back from "Grand View."

DAY 10 -- YELLOWSTONE TRIP 1926

CAVORTING WITH BEARS -- August 5

[I read that bear sightings are more common these days as the bears lose habitat to fires and seek to find relief from the heat. In fact, as Mike and I drove up the Gilbert Grade on Saturday, a black bear lumbered across the road right in front of us. This is the first time we’ve seen a bear on the grade, though we see them in this region from time to time.]

Postcard: At Fishing Bridge Camp

Ina feeding cookies to a 2-year-old "brown bear"

We left Jackson Lake camp after lunch yesterday and made this camp among the trees. Saw a bear in camp standing up being fed. Mother bear and cub in camp this A.M. The next move is to backtrack five miles and see Natural Bridge and Knotted Pines. Then on to Grand Canyon [of the Yellowstone]. We are getting awfully dirty. Bernice says the nighties will get up and walk off with a blanket on each arm. Getting hungry for home cooking. 

Shirley & the brown bear

[Have you watched Hazardous History with Henry Winkler? This trip to Yellowstone in 1926 qualifies as “hazardous.” Never mind that the cars were anything but reliable and safe, did you see how close they stood to Old Faithful on Day 8? It’s not allowed today. And here we see them actually holding out treats for the bears to snatch. And Ina thinks it’s such fun!!! I’m surprised the bear didn’t swat her.

Here’s an overview regarding the evolution of the attitude toward bears at Yellowstone provided by Google:

“In the 1920s, bears at Yellowstone National Park were not widely viewed as lethal or terrifying apex predators but rather as entertaining, anthropomorphized attractions. Park management actively encouraged tourists to feed black bears and view nightly garbage-dump spectacles, treating minor bites and scratches as a fun ‘souvenir’ rather than a severe safety hazard. Despite the lighthearted public relations, both black bears and grizzlies remained powerful wild animals, and serious or fatal attacks did occasionally happen at feeding sites. The casual attitude toward bear safety eventually led to severe habituation and rising conflict. The National Park Service phased out the dumps and officially banned feeding by 1970.”

Aunt Bernice & the "brown bear"

In the mid-1950s, when I was about five years old, I went with my parents to visit Uncle Earle and Aunt Bernice in Idaho Falls. (Uncle Earle taught junior high manual arts and mathematics there for thirty years.) Uncle Earle drove us to Yellowstone Park, and I remember that we sat in a long line of cars on the road as the bears came along looking for handouts. Uncle Earle had brought a bag of candy, and as the bear approached our car, I tried to put one in its mouth. Alarmed, my dad was rolling up the window as fast as he could. KW] 

DAY 9 -- YELLOWSTONE TRIP 1926

A colorized postcard view of Yellowstone Lake from the 1920s

 August 4, 1926

At Leek’s Camp at Jackson Lake. We plan to go back through S.E. entrance to Yellowstone Camp and on to Lake Camp, still on Yellowstone Lake.

[Ina completed her journal and apparently mailed it home. She didn’t begin another letter, so now the information about the trip is sketchy, mostly from postcards and the backs of pictures. They left Jackson Lake and went back to Yellowstone Park where they camped and did more sight-seeing. I’ll include here Ina’s “Wayside Notes,” indicating what worked.]

INA’S WAYSIDE NOTES

·      The tent is priceless, far above rubies. The feather beds are very comforting. Glad we brought ‘em along.

·      Shirley’s vanity case is the handiest thing on the works and the little Vaseline can in constant demand.

·      The little suitcase is next in the honor roll, holding all the little indispensables of our toilets.

·      The box which started out to hold fry pans and buckets was commandeered the second A.M. to ride the running board to hold extra wraps and parcels. Our backseat was much more comfortable ever after.

·      I soon found I could pin my hat onto the wide cloth band in corner of car cover, so I don’t wear it much.

·      At the desert station called Yale, Shirley put her black tie around my head, and I’ve been more respectable ever since.

DAY 8 -- YELLOWSTONE TRIP 1926

 

A colorized postcard photo of Jackson Lake

August 3, 1926

[Several pages of Ina's letter journal blew away, so she reconstructs the best she can. The timeline becomes blurred, but the stories continue.]

From a postcard: "A bear came into camp last night and ate at table. We had lots of fun. This morning, a mother bear and cubs came into camp and we got pictures. Weather fine."

[Ina completes her journal with the following entry:] 

We left the loop we were taking around the Park and came 23 miles through the south entrance and on to Jackson Lake in the Jackson Hole country. Very fine scenery with the Tetons looming across the lake. We came through level valleys surrounded by beautifully wooded mountains and along lovely creeks. We went to Moran, opposite Mt. Moran, and here the Snake flows out of Jackson Lake, and there is a big dam. There was a little store full of furs, all made, and heads and skins of animals decorated the walls, also chairs made of elk bones. But the chance to fish was poor, so we got bread, eggs, etc., and came back several nights to this beautiful camp on the lake.

The men got a boat but caught no fish. Dad, who fished along the bank, caught four copper bellies which are poor eating. [These were likely Utah Chubs, bony bottom feeders that she called copper bellies because of their coloring.]

This is our most beautiful camp so far, among little poplars and lodgepole pines, on a gentle slope overlooking the lake with small poplars and sage scattered over it. I had a big sage fire last night.

Now my diary letter is up to date. The men got up early and went fishing along the shore. Earle got one lake trout, their only luck. They came back for a hasty breakfast and went again in the boat, We did up dishes and aired our bedding, which it badly needed.

[On the morning of August 3, Shirley wrote the following postcard from “Jackson Lake Camp”:] I’m going to start right off by asking one of you to phone to Aunt Ida and ask her to buy that green hat for me. We’re camped near Jackson Lake and have a splendid view of the Tetons. Words can’t express their wild, rugged beauty. We’re having a sagebrush fire tonight. We’ll start back around the Grand Loop in the Park tomorrow.

DAY 7 -- YELLOWSTONE TRIP 1926

 

Shirley Dobson, Bernice Dryden Dobson, and Lynn Dryden at Old Faithful Geyser

August 2 -- 

Ina notes on the back of the above photo: Vance took this picture of Old Faithful Geyser and got scalded on his face and arms when a light breeze blew the steam on him. He felt the effects the rest of the day. Old Faithful erupts every 60 to 70 minutes, throwing a column of water two feet in diameter from 120 to 170 feet and maintaining it for three minutes. Bernice, Lynn, and Shirley look like they are ready to dodge.

A geyser near Old Faithful

On the morning of August 2, Vance wrote a postcard to his sisters at the farmhouse: We’re at Old Faithful Camp and are just packing to leave. The geysers are wonderful and will see a few more today. The bears didn’t eat Dad, contrary to all expectations. We expect to camp at West Thumb of Yellowstone Lake and go on to the Tetons tomorrow. I hope the fences are standing up.

Old Faithful Inn -- "about 30 rods from the geyser"

And Ina also wrote to the daughters at home: We saw wonders yesterday afternoon and this morning. We went through the Old Faithful Inn. Weather looks stormy. We saw the bears eating and one came almost into camp this A.M. We are having a fine time. Wonderful campground. Got pictures. Love, Momma

On the back of the photo of Old Faithful Inn, Ina quotes from the Haynes' Guidebook: "the most extensive log structure yet devised by man." At the center it's eight stories high.

The above photo is Jupiter Terrace, part of the Mammoth Hot Springs. It's more imposing but not so beautiful as Angel Terrace and not far from it. 

DAY 6 -- YELLOWSTONE TRIP 1926

 

From the Haynes Guide, 1926

August 1, 1926 (Sunday)

On this date, Shirley wrote a postcard from Pond’s Resort, about 40 miles from Yellowstone: We’re just about ready to leave for the Park. It was surely cold last night. We’re getting up so much higher. We had a tire tube fixed in Idaho Falls yesterday morning, and it was nearly 9:30 when we left. Then we didn’t drive as fast as we had before. We sidetracked about an hour and went to see the great Snake River Falls, but it was well worth it. It was wonderful and picturesque. I must stop for lack of room. Wish you were here. I’m surely missing you, Shirley Jean. Love, Shirley

Ina continues: We decided to sleep in a little so got up at 5:30 and were away for the great entrance to the Park.

Western Entrance to Yellowstone National Park

I must tell you a joke on us. We were all looking for Fountain Geyser, which was on our first right. We saw a sign called Fountain Road and turned off within parking of a nearby ranger station. When we came to a small mound and saw steam, we decided it was Fountain Geyser, but Lynn and Earl were well ahead of us, so we chased after them, frantically blowing our horn. I think we chased them at least a mile. Then we all came back to the “geyser.” We tried to get Earle and Lynn to take the car back to the ranger station a quarter of a mile away to ask what time the geyser would erupt, but they wouldn’t, so Shirley and Bernice went and came back laughing. It wasn’t Fountain Geyser at all – only a hot pool.

Mammoth Hot Springs Terrace, postcard

Our drive from here on into the Lower Basin was filled with wonders. Fountain Geyser was a gorgeous pool of hot water a beautiful blue and another of wondrous green and smaller ones around of various shades of blue, green, orange shading to brown, pink, lavender, gray, mauve. It is simply indescribable.

Excelsior Geyser, taken by Vance

This P.M. we saw Excelsior Geyser, Turquoise Pool, and Prismatic Lake, all close together. Turquoise Pool was a heavenly blue such as I’ve never seen before. It’s about 30 feet across. Excelsior Geyser was in a pit with walls, say 25 feet high. It was as big as the house yard, I’d say, and a deep blue and boiling and splashing up in different places. It was shaded to different tints at edge and flowed down over a many-colored bluff into the Firehole River. Prismatic Lake had so many colors – blue, green, gold, orange, bronze, brown, pinks, lavender, wine. No time for more description.

Mammoth Paint Pots, by Vance

We went on and camped at Old Faithful campground. We saw the geyser spout, got souvenirs, etc. 

[The family purchased a box of 50 colored postcards which have been enjoyed by the generations over the ensuing century. The black and whites are lackluster but serve as a reminder that they were impressed by the beauty of the Park features. I remember my elementary school teachers talking about the wonders of Yellowstone in the 1950s. Do they still talk about it today? Is it still impressive, or have we ruined it?]