Friday, August 3, 2012

Joseph Plains


Joseph Plains is an area directly west of Grangeville, Idaho, although the best access (and possibly the only) to the area is down the Graves Creek Road out of Cottonwood, north of Grangeville.  If you look at a road map you will see no roads in this area.  There may be access from the Hammer Creek area near White Bird but I’m not sure.  I know there were settlers in this area in the late 1800’s but for some reason it didn’t grow.  There are now just a few scattered cattle ranches in the area.  The elevation of the plain is about 4,400 feet.

My first trip to Joseph Plains was in October of 2010 when a friend who was experiencing some health problems asked me to accompany him there to his hunting camp to help bring back his camp trailer.  I knew there were two Geocaches up there so naturally I planned to kill two birds with one stone.  Unfortunately my GPS receiver which was new at the time was giving me some problems so I was unable to locate the caches.  However, it was working long enough for me to place one.  It happened to be right at the hunting camp very near the pictured structure.  It was called “Ye Royal Crapper”.  Up until about a week ago no one had found it.

The cachers who found it are a husband and wife team in Lewiston who are friends of mine and also are the owners of the other two caches in the area.  While up there they also checked their caches and put them in good shape.  I had been wanting to get back up there to find those caches so as we were returning to town for a couple of days I decided it would be a good time to make the trip.

Wednesday morning I loaded up the BMW, as a good deal of the travel would be on gravel roads, and set out for Cottonwood.  The Graves Creek road out of Cottonwood is a nice paved road that takes you down to the Salmon River.  At the river the road forks.  The south fork goes for a couple of miles and is part of the Pine Bar Recreation Area.  I went chukar hunting in this area some years back and I remember getting no birds but getting very wet as it rained the whole time.  I turned north instead and went for about a mile to the Rice Creek Bridge across the Salmon River.  There was someone fishing on the bridge and I saw some rafters on the river below.

After crossing the bridge the pavement ends so I stopped to deflate my tires some to better accommodate the twisty gravel roads.  While I was doing this an old timer in a hay truck stopped and asked me to retrieve his mail for him at the nearby mailbox.  He said he was a lifelong resident of the area and asked what I was doing.  He had never heard of Geocaching so we got into quite a discussion.  I showed him a map of where I was going and he warned me to watch out for logging trucks.

If you are familiar with the Lewiston grade at Lewiston, Gilbert grade at Orofino, Greer Grade at Greer or Seven Mile Grade at Kamiah, they are all in the area of 1,800 to 1,900 feet in elevation gain.  In comparison the Rice Creek Grade rises over 3,100 feet and is a twisty gravel road.  You can be sure I was taking those sharp hairpin curves very slowly.  There was a logging truck in front of me so I stopped a couple of times to avoid catching up with his dust trail.  I passed him at the top where he had stopped and I thought that was unusually polite for a logger to worry about my eating his dust.

About three miles from the top I came to the first cache called “Joseph Plains – Boles”.  There were a few old structures here and it had apparently been a small settlement at some distant time.  While I was stopped the logger pulled up to see what I was doing (I guess) and I thanked him for letting me pass.  Turns out, that wasn’t the reason he stopped at all.  I should have known.  He was just getting some water to wash the dust off himself.  After finding the cache nearby I sat in the shade close to where the picture was taken and had my lunch.  At first I thought 8 cows were going to join me but they politely kept their distance.

The other cache was just over six miles further and I passed through a logging operation on the way.  I saw some great firewood opportunities in their slag piles but you would have to live up there to make it worthwhile.  The cache which required a short hike down a sloping meadow was called “Joseph Plains View” and it lived up to its name.  It was a little hazy but it gave a view all the way to the Seven Devils.

Just as I was getting back to my motorcycle I saw a logging truck coming up the road behind me.  I did not want to get in that dust so I quickly jumped on, stuck my gloves in my jacket and blasted off.  In less than a mile I couldn’t see him any more so either he was going quite a bit slower or turned off.

I made it back down the Rice Creek Grade with only one minor slip on one of the hairpins.  It was a really hot day and you could feel the temperature rise as you descended the grade.  After crossing the Salmon River bridge I found some shade on the Graves Creek road and stopped to inflate my tires for the pavement.  I made it back home around 4:00 pm having covered a little less than 200 miles.  As far as I know I didn’t lose or break anything. (The second picture is going down Graves Creek) M/W

8 comments:

Chris said...

"Back in the day" when I worked for the Idaho Land Dept., in the summer I would often hear of a fire in the Joseph Plains. Difficult country to get to and fight fire in. Thanks for the pictures!

Leah said...

My goodness, what a remote area. That must have been a thrill, just to go off so far from "civilization." A grade of 3100 ft. Yikes!

I'll bet those caches mean more to you because of the remoteness. Things that are harder to get have a higher value, don't they?

Why is the date on some photos and not on others?

M/W said...

I don't know about the camera dates unless it has to do with the scene setting.

What's strange about this area is in spite of it's seemingly remoteness it's really not very far from civilization.

Anonymous said...

I AM READING A BOOK BY AUTHOR TERRY C. JOHNSTON CALLED "LAY THE MOUNTAINS LOW" THE SAD FLIGHT OF THE NEZ PERCE AND I WANTED TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT PRESENT DAY JOSEPH'S PLAINS AND THE TERRITORY. BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY!I AM AN EASTERN GAL BUT MY HUSBAND WAS BORN AND RAISED IN THE WEST AND I SAW ALOT OF THAT BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY.

Kathy said...

Thank you for your comment. If you're interested in Joseph Plains history, a must-read is Eyewitness to Idaho History by Marion L. Shinn.

Kat Kradle said...

As a resident of up on Joseph Plains, I can tell you there is a Doumecq Road access from White Bird. a quick check of a map could tell you that.

Kathy said...

Thank you, Kat Kradle, for your tip.

Walter k. said...

I don’t know how I found you, but I’m really glad I did. You brought back sooo many fond memories. It’s not that I’m old, well 86, yeah I guess you’d have to consider me old. As a 14 year old young boy, I had the opportunity of a life time to work for the Heckmans, Eck and Lizzie, the brothers Don and Vern and Don’s wife Katie, and their two sons, Donnie and Jackson (?). You talked about Graves Creek and Rice Creek and the rock road from Salmon River up to the plains. I can still smell the Syringa on that dusty rocky road. I was hired to pick up rocks, yes, pick up rocks. When there is a HARD freeze, it pushes the rocks to the path of least resistance, and they come up to surface. These big rocks damage the header/cutter bar of a combine. Hey, it was a job. I rode horses and went out with the crew to fix fence. (( crew was inmates from Idaho Correctional Facilities, who were almost ready for parole and ranchers contracted with Idaho State to have them come work and be with their families.)). We brought the cattle up from winter grazing down on the Salmon and then branded. It is Not like the movies. It is work. Have to separate the yearlings, calves. Someone has to keep branding fire going, rope and tie the calves, actually brand ((Britchen brand)), castrate, tag ears, hoof and mouth pill forced down the throat, burn the horns of the males. Make sure this calf when released goes to the exit of corral. Branding is a time consuming job which takes a lot of men. We had tractors that pulled gobal disc, harrowing, drilling ((seeding)); it’s a dirty, dusty job. Got to do this for two summers. It is dry land ranching. The views on Joseph Plains is majestic. You can look south and see the 7 Devils. You can look down, and I mean down, to see the Snake and Salmon Rivers, portions of Hell’s Canyon ((deeper than Grand Canyon)) Pictures can’t really catch the beauty of the plains. You have to see it and the beauty will be ingrained in your memory. Thank God I had the opportunity to meet the Heckmans and work for them at Joseph Idaho. Oh, yes, there was in fact a one room school that only ran seasonal to accommodate the
Harsh Winters. As you can tell, GOOD MEMORIES.